Beijing, China by Jeff Crosby
For a full explanation of this series, see here.
Austin, TX by Jascha
Los Angeles, CA by Andrew Culver
Shanghai, China by John Pasden
Boston, MA by Ella Chou
Toronto, Canada by Erik Schomann
Washington, DC by Sarah Hassaine
We head back to China for our next installment and visit its ancient and hip capital, Beijing. Originally from northern Virginia, Jeff Crosby first came to China as part of a college Chinese program in 2000. He's basically stayed ever since, living mostly in Yunnan Province and now in Beijing. Jeff has worked as a translator specializing in Chinese art over the past eight years and now is a consultant for Chinese and foreign companies on cultural exchange, media projects, and event planning. Jeff reports that he's doing something really big now but says it's a secret 
. He can be reached at jeff (at) crosbyart.com
Matt Schiavenza: What brought you to Beijing in the first place? What keeps you there?
Jeff Crosby: I moved to Beijing for the first time in 2005 for a job, and I moved back up recently to chase some new opportunities. I guess that's what brings a lot of people here. Of course, this wasn't my first city in China. I came to China back in 2000 out of curiosity and a vague idea that I might find a more interesting life here.
Nowadays I can actually make a decent living off the translating and consulting without actually having to be in Beijing, but this is a place where you're constantly bumping into new opportunities, meeting interesting people and constantly reassessing your own accomplishments. I think that's what I really take from this city.
MS: What are the best things about life in Beijing?
JC: Definitely the people. This city is flooded with some of the best minds in China. Most of the materialistic people (aka chasing the big salary of payday) flock to Shanghai and Shenzhen, while the dreamers come to Beijing. All the artists, musicians, wannabe writers and just downright interesting people are getting drawn in here from across the country and the world. And they do it right when they get here. There's a great music scene, tons of great art to see, and great restaurants from all over.
That and the lamb kebab shops. Nothing beats ending a hot summer day in a hutong with your pant legs rolled up, a pile of juicy lamb kebabs and a mini-keg of ice-cold cheap beer.
MS: What are the worst things about living in Beijing?
JC: The physical environment is just awful. Air pollution, traffic, crowding, a harsh climate, you name it. The green space has been improving but it still has a long way to go. Even when you get out of the city, the nature is not much to look at. And that's the real drawback of living here. You absolutely must get out from time to time to take in some nature.
Oh, and don't forget the dust storms. The dust storms suck.
MS: If you were mayor, what would be on your agenda?
JC: The traffic! The traffic situation definitely needs a lot of work. Not just more public transportation (which is much better these days), but also better management of traffic lights and general flow. Also, one of my first edicts as mayor would be a moratorium on knocking down old buildings. Beijing has lost so much of its heritage recently, and that has to stop.
MS: What's something about Beijing that can't be found in a guidebook?
JC: That could be a really long list. Beijing is full of great stuff to see, and it's all overshadowed by the twin giants of the Forbidden City and the Great Wall. Dongcheng District, with its back-alley chicken wing joints, hole in the wal jazz bars, and boutique design shops is the real overlooked gem of the city. I've also been having a lot of fun exploring all the alleys and restaurants around Dongsi these days. My next mission is to explore the vast network of underground tunnels and bomb shelters.
MS: What kind of person would be best suited for Beijing?
JC: When I'm in second-tier cities such as Kunming and run into young aspiring expats, I tell them to go and spend a few years in the big city. The tier one cities like Beijing and Shanghai are just light years ahead of the rest of the country, and it's hard to get a grasp of what's happening in this country without living here for awhile. The opposite applies as well. I'd say, if you're in a place in life where you want a challenge and a bit of an adventure, then you'll fit in right here.
MS: What kind of person would be worst suited for Beijing?
JC: I'd stay away if you have a narrow comfort zone. You can definitely pamper yourself out here, but you're always going to have to deal with the harsh physical reality. I guess that's the case with most big cities. Also, if you're likely to get sucked into the expat scene, you'll be wasting a trip. It's huge and fun, with lots of great parties, but what's the point of coming all the way out here for something you can find at home?
Jeff in Beijing
MS: What's something about Beijing that runs contrary to popular perception?
JC: In the rest of China it's considered this massive, soulless behemoth, which I think is totally wrong, at least the last part. I can't say I really know what people think of it in the West, because my own preconceived notions about it were blown away about a decade ago when I first passed through. I do show a lot of foreigners around the city though, and I think most people are impressed by how vibrant the cultural scene is.
MS: Is Beijing suitable for all age groups, or would it be better for some age groups rather than others?
JC: I couldn't imagine trying to raise kids here. Pollution aside, there's the bureaucratic nightmare of getting your kid into a good school, and then you have to figure out the logistics of getting him there every morning. I feel bad for all the local parents who have to brave the traffic nightmares every day and then line up outside the school to pick up their children. Most of the expat families to do it live in walled compounds outside of the city and pay astronomical prices for international schools.
MS: Do you feel optimistic about Beijing's future?
JC: Yes and no. It's a very exciting place with a lot going for it, but it's just not sustainable. This whole region of China is on the verge of becoming a desert, and there's no way it can sustain the massive population it has now (closing in on 20 million). I wouldn't be the least bit surprised to see the capital moved to another city in the next decade or so.
MS: If you could choose, which other city would you like to live in?
JC: Honestly, I'd probably go back to Kunming in a heartbeat if there were enough opportunities there to support me. My time in China though has turned me into a big city guy. I could see myself living in a place like New York or Paris.
MS: Can you sum up Beijing in a word, phrase, or sentence?
JC: 牛B!
