Opening Ceremonies- The Day Has Finally Come
I watched the Opening Ceremonies at a pub with Shanghaiist's Rebekah Pothaar, her brother, and a group of about 40 Chinese and foreign patrons. On the whole, I have to agree with Chris' take: it was pretty spectacular. I liked some parts more than others (the Chinese singer Liu Huan generally gives me the creeps), but easily my favorite was the tai qi demonstration- it was beautiful. I also liked the torch lighting at the end, and wonder how London in 2012 will be able to one-up Beijing. The stadium looked amazing, too.
Some other jottings:
- easily the funniest moment of the march of nations was the camera panning to Da Shan (otherwise known as Mark Rowswell as he so self-importantly tells us on TV) marching with the Canadian team. Da Shan, of course, is the most famous laowai in China, best known for his mastery of an ancient Chinese comedy form called "crosstalk". He also regularly appears as the token white guy in various TV productions and has his face plastered over billboards advertising electronic dictionaries. For Chinese people, Da Shan is the standard bearer for foreigners' ability to learn Chinese. Everyone knows him.
Except, of course, in Canada. I can only imagine that when the camera pans to the tall, angular blonde guy in his glasses, Canadians from across the country will utter, "who the hell is that?"
- what was with the bagpipes? Funny line from my friend Erik: "Bagpipes of course were brought to the West from China by Marco MacPolo". I can understand playing them while the British and Irish march past but for Paraguay?
- Erik's other observation about the ceremonies in general:"this looks like a Pink Floyd concert."
- The Chinese in attendance respectfully applauded Taiwan (marching as Chinese Taipei), Hong Kong, Japan, the US, and other entities with which it has a complicated or adversarial relationship. The foreigners tended to cheer for their home country, a country of ancestry (I stood up for Italy and Norway), or whenever the camera panned to a beautiful female athlete. Everyone booed France, even the Chinese. And everyone cheered China. I walked around and shook the hands of the Chinese strangers in attendance, some of whom were misty eyed. This is their moment.
-Didn't former Chinese President Jiang Zemin look like a wax museum model of himself? I realize he's old, but wow. Hu, Wen, and the rest of the Politburo were in good form. President Bush did his usual Alfred E. Neuman "What me worry?" routine, standing and waving with a shit-eating grin. Russian premier Vladimir Putin looked perturbed and distracted, which I suppose is natural considering he just provoked a war with neighboring Georgia. Oh, that's right- he isn't president anymore. How could I forget?
- Good live blogging from both Brendan and Jeremiah.
Some select quotes from Jeremiah:
"NBC's The Today Show kicks off from Beijing where today "What some people are calling €˜the most important moment in modern Chinese history'" will occur. I guess that whole Liberation-Great Leap Forward-Cultural Revolution-Opening and Reform thing was just a warm up act. Good to know, I can condense a few lectures for next semester."
"China's answer to Liberace€¦Lang Lang"
"There's a dude from some Middle Eastern country (Okay, so I'm fading a bit on who's who) talking on his cell phone while marching and waving the flag. Like he didn't tell people BEFORE that he might be on TV? "Yeah, hey Abdul€¦like, I forgot to mention that when I was leaving for 2 weeks I would be marching in the Olympic opening ceremonies in front of 4 billion people, so turn on the TV! Oh, and don't forget to feed the goldfish"
And from Brendan:
"Putin is in the audience, applauding and looking lifeless. I wonder if that's what happens when they remove your soul."
"Jiang Zemin is smiling. MUST WASH EYEBALLS. Is it me or does he look like a slimmed-down Jabba the Hutt?"
Well....13 or so hours later (with a nice Salvadors' Mexican breakfast burrito in my belly) I'm watching my first event, the women's weightlifting (48kg division). A Chinese has won the first of what will be many, many gold medals this time around. I like the Chinese national anthem (far more than my own Star Spangled Banner) but I think I'll get pretty tired of hearing it before the first week is over. It'll be interesting to compare coverage of the Games in China in comparison to the US.
We shall see how it will all play out.
Kunming Fashion
Last weekend, Max & Co, a boutique line under Italian fashion giant MaxMara, held its third annual fashion show in Kunming to promote its fall and winter collection. Knowing little about fashion (but more than a little Italian) I interviewed Max & Cos PR director the day before the show, and the interview turned out to be a lot of fun and very interesting. Here's a snippet:
GoKunming: The concept of high-end fashion is relatively new in China. What characteristics of the Chinese market have you most noticed since you began working for Max & Co?
*
Adele Lobasso: Although consumers from around the world like purchasing brand-name clothing, the Chinese wealthier classes showed an even more pronounced preference toward wearing well-known designer items. For example, in the early 90s, I saw quite a few Chinese women leaving the sticker on a new pair of sunglasses in an attempt to flaunt their purchase.As far as taste is concerned, the majority of Chinese women dress more modestly than their European or North American counterparts, so we de-emphasize particularly revealing clothing when appealing to the Chinese market. Regional variations matter, however. It is difficult to compare fashion trends in cities such as Beijing and Shanghai with cities in the country's interior.
Read the rest.
Olympic Roundtable
Maggie Rauch, co-founder of the China Sports Today blog and friend and colleague of mine, participated in an ESPN roundtable with three other journalists discussing how the Olympic Games will play out in China.
(link via GoKunming)
China: Having Its Cake And Eating It Too?
In an indignant and ultimately silly blog post comparing the Beijing Olympics to the Berlin Games in 1936, the usually excellent George Packer moans about China's inability to reform in the years since it won its bid in 2001. Writes Packer:
Don't accuse me of equating China with Nazi Germany, for I'm not€”but it's becoming clear that the I.O.C.'s decision to give the 2008 Olympics to Beijing is its worst call since 1936. Now that it's too late to turn around, China is busy breaking all its promises to improve human rights, allow uncensored coverage, or even€”for God's sake€”clean up the air in Beijing so that marathoners don't fall dead in the streets. I know we're supposed to say nice things about China as a rising power and welcome it to the world stage because anything else inflames Chinese nationalism. But the Chinese leadership wants to have it both ways: quick to criticize President Bush for interfering in China's sovereign affairs when he had the decency to meet Chinese dissidents this week, but eager to cash in on all the geo-political benefits that the Olympics will bring. China didn't even bother to abstain last month but instead vetoed sanctions against Robert Mugabe at the U.N. Unlike Germany in 1936, China is prettifying its streets without pretending to prettify its foreign policy.
Packer's no dummy, but honestly- did anyone really expect (aside from the naive IOC) that China would somehow begin to behave just because it got the Games? Like any living organism, governments only evolve when they face pressure to do so. The Olympics, as major an undertaking as they are, never threatened the legitimacy of the government. Also, what geo-political benefits does Packer imagine China receiving from the Olympics? China's status hasn't changed in the past seven years- it is still a rising (but minor) power with a booming economy, an authoritarian state that restricts individual liberties in favor of social harmony and political stability, and a nation whose foreign policy is mainly characterized by mercantilist schemes in countries the West avoids for "moral" reasons. It also is home to one-fifth of the global population, the majority of whom remain very poor.
I can see Packer's point: China does like to see itself as a integral part of the global community but gets snippy with every real or imagined slight against its sovereignty. But it is hardly alone in this respect. The U.S. (under Presidents Clinton and Bush) refused to sign onto the International Criminal Court or ratify the Kyoto Protocol. Russia uses heavy-handed tactics to influence political outcomes in its neighboring countries. Thailand and Cambodia narrowly avoided a war over a temple, for heaven's sake. Sovereign countries will always act in their own self-interest.
Plus, to paraphrase Donald Rumsfeld: everyone needs to just relax. The Olympics are an international sporting competition. The biggest one, of course, but still just a sporting competition. As I wrote yesterday, I cannot believe that had Berlin not hosted the '36 games World War Two would have been averted, nor would the Soviet Union still have existed today had the Olympics been elsewhere in 1980.
Packer flippantly hopes that the games go "a-flop". Why? What would that really accomplish? The Games mean a lot to a lot of people, not only the athletes but also the people in China and elsewhere who have worked very hard to make the Olympics successful. I, for one, will sit back and watch, reveling in good old fashioned sport competition.
Olympic Thoughts

I remember taking the above photo in Tiananmen Square during my first visit to Beijing in January 2005, back when the whole idea of promoting an Olympics less than six months after the previous one finished seemed more than a little ridiculous. Now, the Games are exactly a week away, and the energy and intensity of Chinese media coverage has been astonishing. Has the privilege of hosting the Games ever captured an entire nation with such fervor before?
Seven years ago, the International Olympic Committee (IOC) awarded the 2008 games to Beijing, hoping that by doing so the Chinese government would work toward improving human rights in the Middle Kingdom. This hasn't really happened. While China's economy continues to grow, its political situation remains largely stagnant. The news media is no freer than it was twenty years ago, even with the spread of the Internet. Repression of dissident minorities, if anything, has only increased in intensity. Single-party rule has not teetered, waned, or even questioned itself; the Communist Party remains in firm control of government and society. Pollution, which Beijing swore it would curb by the time the games arrived, still looms over the city (and country) as an ever-present reminder of China's dire environmental situation.
The IOC, naturally, feels somewhat disappointed. Barring an unforeseen development, the Games haven't had the political effect its stewards wished for, and if anything they'll merely serve as a vehicle for robust Chinese nationalism. I imagine the IOC will breathe a huge sigh of relief at the closing ceremonies and then turn their attention to the far more calming prospect of London in 2012.
I find it difficult to sympathize with the IOC's political hand-wringing. China is hardly the first authoritarian state to host the Olympics, after all. Nazi-controlled Germany hosted the 1936 Games in Berlin, and the Communist Soviet Union did so forty-four years later. Some have argued that the '36 games did nothing but propel the Third Reich on its terrible course, but is that really so? Isn't the enduring story from those Games Jesse Owens' victory in the 100-meter dash, disproving Hitler's notion of white supremacy? Did the 1980 games have any effect whatsoever on the subsequent collapse of the USSR? Methinks the crumbling centrally-planned economy and disastrous Afghanistan invasion may have had more to do with the end of Soviet rule than any athletic competition.
China, like it or not, has the world's largest population. It has never hosted the Games before. Its previous international competitions (such as the Asian Games) succeeded without any major problems. Putting aside the pollution issue, Beijing has prepared for the Games about as well as could be expected. And, as in the case in every previous Olympics, there will be moments of glorious achievement and moments of agonizing defeat. Which is the whole point, isn't it?
Nothing To Do With China
Every now and then you come across an article in the mainstream American media that looks as if it was written as satire, and this from the Chicago Tribune falls into this category: someone in Indiana has opened Conservative Cafe, a java joint for those on the righty side of the political fence:
From the moment customers enter the front door, the Conservative Cafe is serving up caffeinated doctrine.
Ann Coulter books sit stacked by the fireplace, and a picture of Ronald Reagan hangs on the wall. Fox News plays on all the televisions, and stock market quotes scroll along an electronic ticker above the cash register.
Behind the counter, owner Dave Beckham smiles proudly in a khaki T-shirt that reads "Zip It, Hippie." The shirt is for sale at the Crown Point, Ind., cafe, along with ones that say "Peace through Superior Firepower."
"It's a change from the traditional liberal bastion coffeehouses," Beckham says. "No one is going to bad-mouth America in here."
His ugly politics aside, you do have to give Beckham credit for coming up with (what seems to be) a completely original idea. It surprises me, though, that conservatives are so spooked by the liberal edge in most coffee shops, even (gasp!) mega-corporate Starbucks. I used to go to a couple of red-neck type dive bars in suburban San Diego that boasted a rather right-leaning clientele, but as long as everyone could come in, drink a beer, and have a good time, who cared?
But I guess I'm just not what the Conservative Cafe had in mind...
PS- I do appreciate that Beckham derides the faux-Italian names in Starbucks. This has long irritated me, too. Whenever I go to Starbucks (most recently in Hong Kong), I usually just want a large black coffee. But I can never remember: is "tall" really "small"? And what the hell does "venti" mean? Wouldn't people be very confused if one ordered a "20" coffee in English? Would it be so difficult to just say, "small medium large"? The humanity!
(link via Daily Dish)