Matt Schiavenza From the Dragon to the Apple- A Sinophile in New York

International Kunming

One of Kunming's charms is that it manages to be both cosmopolitan and intimate at the same time, something unique in China. Certainly, Shanghai and Beijing and Hong Kong have more international flavor, but all three are enormous, bustling, expensive cities. Kunming isn't. While large by global standards, Kunming has the feel of a mid-sized provincial Chinese capital, which is to its benefit.

My Saturday night showed that expat life in Kunming goes beyond the odd foreigner bar and pirated DVDs. I first went to a Scandinavian art gallery called Nordica to watch a jazz concert, performed by a quintet featuring four Chinese musicians and a laowai saxophonist. The musicians played a combination of their own compositions (including the pianist's tribute to his father) and jazz standards; it was fun hearing "In a Sentimental Mood" and "Summertime" played so well. The art gallery featured lots of modern pieces and generally had the feel of a loft you'd expect to encounter in San Francisco or New York.

Then, it was off to central Kunming's largest bar "The Hump" for a Brazilian/Latin dance party, organized by the city's South American community. They offered free salsa lessons, and while I ambled along gamely I wisely ceded the floor to the more coordinated dancers present. A Brazilian band (featuring an acoustic guitar and a bongo) entertained everyone except my Scottish friend who was unable, due to the crowds, to see the television screen showing an English premier league match.

I ran out of gas around midnight and decided to return home before turning into a pumpkin. This prevented me from heading to the English pub to watch the Rugby World Cup final, which I learned just now was won by South Africa. I hadn't really watched a full rugby match before last month, but given an opportunity I could become a fan. And with the 49ers so lousy and Cal losing two in a row, maybe that moment will come sooner rather than later.

The same English pub, incidentally, has for the benefit of the Yank expats in town opened early this morning to broadcast Game 6 of the American League Championship Series, played thousands of miles (and twelve time zones) away in Boston, Massachusetts.

I stupidly did not bring my camera out, so no photos I'm afraid.